Shadow Valley Soap

The GoatWorld Database was last updated:



Natural Soapmaking Workshop - Part 3"

Goat Mineral Mix
Support of our advertisers helps support GoatWorld!


Keep It Family Friendly!"








USDA Rural Information Center

NATURAL SOAP MAKING WORKSHOP (PART 3)

Let's get started!

Step One

Measure and weigh out all of your fats, lye, and water or milk. Place the fats in your stainless steal pot and set aside. Pour the lye into the water; at first it will be cloudy and steaming. Stir until they water turns clear, place a candy thermometer in it, and wait for it to reach about 110 degrees.

Start heating the fats when the lye cools to approximately 110 degrees. You want your lye and fats to be about 100 degrees each. Here is a chart form my favorite soap-making page called Miller’s Home Page:

TYPES OF FAT TEMPERATURE OF FAT TEMPERATURE OF LYE SOLUTION
Sweet Rancid Fat 97o to 100o F 75o to 80o F
Sweet Lard or other soft fats 80o to 85o F 70o to 75o F
Half lard and half tallow100o to 110o F80o to 85o F
All tallow120o to 130o F90o to 95o F
Vegetable Fats100o to 110o F90o to 95o F

This gives you all the info you need to figure out the temps that work best with different oils and lye.

Getting the lye and the oils at the proper temperature at the same time can be a little daunting at first. If you find that your lye is too cold, you can put your lye container in hot water in the sink until it reaches the temperature you want and like wise you can use cold water to bring the temperature down faster. Be careful not to splash the lye into the sink or the water you using. It is best to add the water to the sink after you place your container in there. This will avoid your contianer floating and spilling the lye into the sink.

The oils you can treat the same way when you are cooling them down. There is only one problem that you might face with the oils if you are using ones that is solid at room temperature. You want to watch the sides of the soap pot to make sure that they are not developing a film where the oils are beginning to harden. If they do, simply stir them back into the hot oil. I usually will heat my oils long before I need them so they are cooling down at the same time the lye is.

Another option here is to heat half of your oils, and then mix them with the cold oils in the soap pot. I find that you risk loosing some of the oils when you transfer the hot to the cold or visa versa.

Continue on to Part 4

QUICK REFERENCE

Natural Goat Care

Clostridial Diseases

Copper Deficiency

Kidding Handbook

Medications

News Archives

Terminology

Urinary Calculi

The GoatWorld Picture Show

About the author: Elizabeth Childers is a soapmaker with many years experience in the making and writing about of this art. Elizabeth has been kind enough to provide GoatWorld.com with this information. Elizabeth also hosts a weekly Soapmaking Chat here on GoatWorld.com, Tuesday nights in the Chat Room.

Agricultural Research Service

Email: Contact INFO
Telephone: Contact INFO		 Designed & Hosted by: JOLLY GERMAN
©1999-2024 GoatWorld.Com
All written, audio, video and graphic material contained within this site, except where otherwise noted, is Copyright ©1999-2024. Some content may also be the property of contributors to the site, in which case their material is also protected by applicable copyright laws and this copyright policy. No material may be linked directly to or reproduced in any form without written permission. If you would like to reprint something from our site, simply send us an email to request permission to do so. Please refer to our REPRINT criteria.
©Gary Pfalzbot, Colorado, USA
This site is run and operated by a Disabled Veteran

26-December-2024
Visitors today: 269